Eyedolatry: glasses

Shop Small: The Renaissance of American Independent Eyewear

This year's Small Business Saturday had me thinking: optometry is full of independent practitioners but for many years we've been providing eyewear designed by large corporations. Don't get me wrong, I am a fashion world junkie as much as the rest. But while we can be wowed by designer names on the side of our glasses, we often aren't getting much in the way of true design. Many large fashion house designers outsource their optical divisions to larger corporations, and that's where you see entities like Luxottica retailing everything from Oakley to Tory Burch and Michael Kors. Where can you find truly crafted eyewear? Until recently there was very little going on in America, and the top independent eyewear craftsmen were designing in France, Italy, and Japan. But in the past few years we've seen a Renaissance in American eyewear design, and in honor of Small Business Saturday, we're featuring 6 reasons that you should shop small for your eyewear this year too!

Were your glasses made by hand? I challenge you to try on a custom crafted pair of eyewear and feel the difference true design and quality can make. Wonder why your glasses always push dents on your nose or pinch behind your ears? You don't have to hate your glasses; you just need to invest in quality, thoughtful eyewear design. Photo above via State Optical

Article One Eyewear: Based in Flint, Michigan, Article One originated as an idea to give back. Designer Wes Stoody was inspired to create an eyewear line that combined luxury craftsmanship with a cause. Every frame purchased donates money to Helen Keller International, a non-profit fighting blindness from vitamin A deficiency in impoverished nations. To date over 15,000 lives have been touched by their mission. Right now Article One frames are handcrafted in Northern Italy, but Stoody dreams of bringing production to craftsmen in his hometown of Flint in the future. You can hear more of his story here.

A bonus for you Sign up for the Article One newsletter and you'll have a chance to earn a free pair of Article One eyewear and 50% off future orders. This promotion is only open to eyecare providers.

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Bevel This Kansas City based eyewear company is the brainchild of opticians Richard Mewha and Rick Nelson, and their mission statement is a bit unusual. "Neither wants the brand to be the coolest or hottest or most recognizable" states their website, but the focus is on the simple perfection of minimalist ideals: great fit, clean lines, quality materials. Their titanium and acetate frames are designed in America and hand crafted in Japan with a focus on bold colors like the chartreuse used in their graphic brand logo and marketing campaigns.

Celebrity chef Alton Brown in Bevel frames via

l.a. Eyeworks Founded in Los Angeles in 1979 by the dynamic duo of opticians Barbara McReynolds and Gai Gherardi, l.a. Eyeworks has made a name in the industry for being loudly and irreverently unique. Their collections feature bold colors and innovative shapes, perfect for the person who accessorizes with eyewear. Handcrafted in Italy and Japan, their frames can be found stateside and internationally at luxury retailers.

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Blake Kuwahara The celebrated American designer has his own frame line too! His most recent collection features iconic frame-within-a-frame silhouettes that are both fashion forward and entirely wearable. Cool fact: Dr. Kuwahara is also an optometrist which I think officially makes him the coolest and most fashionable optometrist in history. There should be some kind of prize forthcoming, I'm sure.

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Todd Rogers Eyewear Designed by Boston-based optician Todd Rogers, this eyewear line is a great entryway to American design: flattering frame shapes, excellent price points, and a focus on quality in engineering and design. Opticians are especially well-suited for eyewear design, coming from a background of having to repair and adjust poorly made eyewear for years. Imagine day after day dealing with patients coming in trying to make badly made glasses fit like a custom made frame. Tightening here, adjusting there -- it just can't fix bad design. Thus his brand motto: "Made to Be Worn."

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State Optical Co.: Designed in America; Made in America. State Optical is the only American-made luxury eyewear brand on the market currently, but their success is sparking many American designers to try to find ways to bring production back to the States as well. Designed by prolific designer Blake Kuwahara, State frames are hand crafted step by step by step (75 in all!) in Illinois. It takes approximately 2-3 weeks to complete a frame, start to finish. For their full story, head here.

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Everything you need to know about Refractive Error

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A large part of my day is spent performing one task that goes a little something like this:

The Phoropter, an amazing machine I spend a large portion of my day with

Imagine you are sitting behind the phoropter, a machine that is basically a large pair of glasses with every possible prescription inside. On the other side of this very unattractive pair of glasses sits me, your friendly neighborhood eye doctor, spinning dials and flipping lenses. And with every successive clicking sound, I am asking you: “Which is better, one or two?”

It might seem simple enough, but I have had patients tell me that those combinations of words incite anxiety levels on par with “We’re going to have to operate.”

In all seriousness though, some people do find the refractive process very nerve-wracking. I would like to take this opportunity to reassure those patients that if they choose the “wrong” answer to which is clearer, they are not going to end up with hugely thick glasses that they can’t see out of. In fact, we as optometrists give you so many "tough" choices to make certain that you are getting the absolute minimum power you need to see 20/20. If the choices are starting to look the same, and you can’t tell the difference, that is great! That means that we have found your right power!

After your prescription is finalized, however, there is still a lot to discuss. One thing we have proven at this point: you either do or do not need glasses. For some patients, either answer can be a disappointment. Yes, I actually do get patients that are unhappy that they don’t need glasses. They are usually children (late elementary to middle most commonly), whose best friends wear glasses. Just a heads up to parents, if your kid suddenly comes home with vision complaints the same day their best friend sports glasses to school, it is a great idea to have their vision checked by a qualified professional, but they may not end up needing correction. We have many ways of ascertaining your child’s true prescription, so don’t worry that the optometrist can be “fooled” into prescribing lenses that aren’t needed.

To get back to the main topic, however, after I prescribe glasses I often have patients left wondering what is wrong with their eyes that they need glasses? And why do they have to get prescription glasses instead of the ones at the dollar store? And why can’t they wear their mom’s/grandmother’s/ neighbor’s glasses because they have a spare that they are sure they can borrow? Well, all these questions and more will be answered in my coming series: The Patient’s Guide to Refractive Error.

I will have the first post in the series up as soon as possible!

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Back To School

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Schools across the country are heading back to the classroom in the next week or two, and as a parent there is more than enough to purchase and prepare to ensure your child is ready. I know your schedules are busy, but I cannot recommend enough the importance of a full eye exam for children, especially as they return to the classroom with its multitude of visual demands!

According to a study by the AOA, 60 percent of students identified as “problem learners” had undiagnosed vision problems. Due to these alarming findings three states across the nation have implemented mandatory vision exams prior to the start of school (Kentucky, Missouri, and Illinois). Many more are contemplating adding similar laws due to the success of these programs.

Could your child have an undetected visual problem? Here are some behaviors and complaints to look for:

-Holding reading materials or homework too close (this could be a sign of near sightedness or accommodative spasm which is a disorder of the focusing system)

-Squinting

-Headaches, frequently at school and during homework

-Skipping words or entire lines when reading

-Avoiding reading or near work (Note: often this child is deemed “lazy” but avoidance is a common response when the visual strain is too demanding)

In addition to uncovering basic refractive errors such as myopia (near sightedness), hyperopia (far sightedness), and astigmatism, a comprehensive eye exam can detect binocular visual disorders that can greatly impact your child’s ability to perform activities like reading. As optometrists, my colleagues and I are also trained to detect strabismus (eye turns) and amblyopia, conditions where one eye is being underutilized which may result in permanent vision loss unless treated. Also assessed are the child’s focusing system (also called accommodative and convergence systems) and the ocular motor system which is important for both tracking objects and the saccadic eye movements we need for reading.

Treatment for these visual conditions ranges from glasses to vision therapy activities that may improve facility of visual processing and skills like reading. If your child has been diagnosed with a condition where glasses are required, it is still important to be seen yearly, or as directed by your doctor, due to the significant changes in vision that may happen from year to year as your child is growing. Make sure your child’s glasses are also fitting appropriately; if they are significantly bent an unwanted shift in the prescription of the lenses may be induced that can result in decreased vision and eye strain.

The most important thing I can leave you with is the knowledge that the visual system (which includes both the eyes and brain) are the pathways through which virtually all learning is achieved. Having this system assessed is the only way to ensure that your child’s learning ability is not compromised by a visual issue that in most cases is easily solved with glasses or appropriate therapy.

Photo courtesy 123RF

Good luck to everyone and happy back to school!

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Eyewear Inspiration: Resort Wear 2012

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Choosing Frames for Oval and Long Faces

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Choosing Frames for Square Faces

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For our next installment, we will be tackling the slightly more difficult square face shape. I find that most people can discern a round or oval face shape, but a square face shape is a little harder to distinguish. Again, you have to think of these shapes more abstractly – especially in the cases of square, heart, and triangle face shapes. Let’s break this down to make it easier to picture!

Attributes of a square face are:

1. The width and the length of the face are approximately equal. As you may recall this is exactly like the round face shape mentioned in my previous post.

2. The jawline is well-defined and angular in appearance, appearing to be equal in width to the forehead.

Again, the square shape requires you to apply a certain amount of imagination to perceive. Take a close look at our celebrity models below, paying particular attention to the jawline area.

Diane Kruger and Lea Michelle -- both have square faces with a strong jawline

Now, what glasses are most flattering if you are a square? Remember, we want to focus on opposites when selecting frame shape to accentuate and balance your natural features. Since a square shape face already has a lot of structure and angles, a softer, rounded frame will provide some curves. Metal frames are also a great choice for the square face; they are generally lighter and thinner than plastic (or zyl), making for an overall softer look. Rimless frames (where there is no visible eyewire) are also a great option since there are no additional lines or angles created to compound the natural angles of your face. Here are some examples:

Juicy Couture Vintage offers a more oval frame shape, plus great color with a touch of glitz

Nine West Model 422 is a lighter/thinner metal frame with rimless bottom to delete any extra lines or angles

An important note to remember is that these are guidelines after all. If you have a square shaped face it is more than okay to select a rectangular frame shape – just aim more for those with rounded lines to soften the angularity. A personal example: I have a square-shaped face, and my most recent glasses purchase was the Coach Roberta frames featured in this post. The rectangular shape and bold color and thickness of the frames don't exactly follow the guidelines, but the rounded edges to the eyewire still make this a flattering selection (well at least I think so, hah).

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Choosing Frames for Round Faces

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While there are no absolute rules as to what frames will look best for you, there are a few guidelines that your eye care provider or optician ascribe to in making suggestions. Every person has attributes of their facial symmetry and features that can be classified into an overarching "face shape". These categories include round, square, heart-shaped, oval, and the upside down triangle. The most important part to remember is that these face shapes are NOT to be taken literally. A round face doesn’t mean your face is a perfect circle. (And obviously no one is walking around with a triangle for a face out there). Some people may even have features that combine qualities from multiple face shapes, so it isn't a perfect science. In the next several posts I will be breaking down the most important attributes for you. Today it is round face day so here it goes!

Attributes of a round face are:

1. The width and the length of the face are approximately equal

2. Rounded and soft facial features (especially pay attention to the cheeks, chin, and jawline)

If you are still not certain, take a look at actress Ginnifer Goodwin’s face below. She is a great example of a round face: softly rounded features and symmetry of her facial height and width!

Ginnifer Goodwin exemplifying the round face shape (picture from beautyriot)

So if you think you have a round (or elements of a round-esque) face, what frame shape works best for your features? In selecting glasses, opposites really are the rule. A round face is perfectly offset with angular or rectangular eyewear. This frame shape adds angles and structure to complement your softer features. Don’t be afraid to play with bold colors and patterns – a round face is the perfect canvas to show-off personal style with bright colors and architectural frames designs. Check out the rectangular frames below for some of my recommendations.